Phinda Private Game Reserve

Phinda Private Game Reserve is highly recommended for anyone looking to experience South Africa’s wildlife in an exclusive and eco-friendly setting. The reserve is famous for its big cat sightings, with elusive species such as cheetah and leopard being observed quite often compared to many other reserves, and successful conservation projects involving black rhinos. Its varied ecosystems mean you can explore multiple landscapes and see a diverse range of wildlife all in one place. Unlike some other reserves, Phinda offers a more private safari experience with fewer vehicles, ensuring you can connect deeply with nature.

Phinda is also known for its extraordinary birdlife, with more than 400 recorded species, making it a paradise for birdwatchers. The reserve is also conveniently located near both the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, and the diver’s paradise of Sodwana Bay, offering unique opportunities to combine a traditional safari with marine adventures.

Short answer: Game drives, walking safaris, marine adventures, volunteering

Long answer:

Game Drives: Explore Phinda’s seven diverse ecosystems on expertly guided game drives, offered both in the early morning and evening. These drives provide the best chances to see the Big 5, cheetahs, African wild dogs, and a host of other species, from various antelopes to hippos and crocodiles. The guides’ deep knowledge ensures every drive is educational and exciting.

Walking Safaris: For an intimate connection with the African wilderness, opt for a guided walking safari. These allow you to discover the intricacies of the bush, from identifying animal tracks to observing smaller creatures often missed on game drives.

Marine Excursions: Thanks to its proximity to the Indian Ocean, Phinda offers unique marine excursions to nearby Sodwana Bay. Guests can enjoy snorkeling, scuba diving among coral reefs, or simply relaxing on the beach. Between June and November, you may go on whale watching tours, looking for humpback whales migrating along the coast, and between November and January, there are turtle tours where visitors get to experience sea turtles as they lay eggs along the beach.

Conservation Experiences: Dive deeper into the reserve’s renowned conservation efforts by participating in programs such as rhino notching, elephant collaring, or cheetah monitoring. These activities not only provide a hands-on learning experience but also directly support Phinda’s wildlife management programs.

Luxury Accommodation: Phinda boasts several exceptional lodges, each designed to provide an intimate connection to nature while offering world-class comfort.

• • Phinda Mountain Lodge: Perched on a hilltop, this lodge provides panoramic views of the Lebombo Mountains and surrounding bushveld. It’s an ideal destination for families, featuring a range of amenities including a large rim-flow swimming pool, a fully equipped gym, and a wellness center.
  • Phinda Forest Lodge: Nestled within a rare sand forest, this lodge comprises sixteen stilted glass chalets. These chalets are hand-built by local Zulu people to minimize impact on the environment, creating a serene and immersive experience.
  • Phinda Vlei Lodge: Overlooking Phinda’s unique wetland system at the edge of the forest, this lodge features six stilted suites made of thatch, teak, and glass. Guests can enjoy exceptional game sightings, including the Big 5, elusive cheetah, and black rhino, from the comfort of their suites.
  • Phinda Rock Lodge: Built into a cliff face, this lodge offers six unique suites with views over Leopard Rock. The striking architecture and intimate setting make it a perfect choice for those seeking privacy and dramatic landscapes.
  • Phinda Zuka Lodge: Situated in the western region of Phinda, this lodge consists of four thatched Zululand bush cottages. The cottages are set 15 meters apart and feature verandas overlooking a busy waterhole, making it ideal for small groups or families seeking an exclusive safari experience.
  • Phinda Homestead: An exclusive-use villa with four bedrooms, The Homestead offers a private safari experience tailored to the preferences of families or groups of friends. Guests have access to a dedicated ranger, tracker, butler, and chef, ensuring a personalized and luxurious stay.

Volunteering Programs: For a deeper connection to the reserve, consider joining one of Phinda’s volunteering initiatives. andBeyond (who manages Phinda) in partnership with African Conservation Experience offer participants the chance to contribute to crucial research and conservation projects. Volunteers may assist with wildlife monitoring, anti-poaching efforts, and habitat restoration. These programs often include affordable accommodation in shared researcher facilities and access to more off-the-beaten-path areas of the reserve.

Whether you prefer a luxurious retreat or a hands-on adventure, Phinda provides a perfect blend of opportunities for relaxation, exploration, and conservation.

The best time to visit Phinda Private Game Reserve is during the dry season, from May to September. During this period, the vegetation is less dense, making it easier to spot wildlife. Animals also tend to gather around waterholes, creating excellent viewing opportunities.

For those who love lush landscapes, the rainy season from November to March transforms the reserve into a vibrant green haven. This is also the best time for birdwatching as migratory species arrive. However, be prepared for warmer temperatures and occasional rainfall during these months.

• By Air: Phinda Private Game Reserve has its own airstrip, and charter flights are available from major South African cities such as Johannesburg, Durban, and Cape Town. These flights provide a quick and scenic way to reach the reserve.

• By Road: Driving to Phinda from Durban takes approximately 3 hours, and the journey is quite straightforward:
  • Take the N2 highway heading north from Durban. This well-maintained highway will take you past the town of Richards Bay and towards the town of Hluhluwe.
  • Approximately 2.5 hours into the drive, turn off the N2 at the Hluhluwe exit. From there, follow the signs to the R22.
  • Continue along the R22, passing through small towns and rural areas. Watch for clear signage directing you to the entrance of Phinda Private Game Reserve.
  • Once you enter the reserve’s private roads, drive carefully as wildlife often crosses the tracks.

For those driving from Johannesburg, the trip takes about 6-7 hours. Start by taking the N17 and then the N2 highway towards KwaZulu-Natal, following similar directions as you approach the Hluhluwe area.

Tips for Road Travel:

• Ensure your vehicle is in good condition and carry a spare tire, as some of the roads closer to the reserve may be gravel or uneven.
• Fill up on fuel and grab refreshments in Hluhluwe, as there are limited facilities near the reserve.
• Allow extra time for stops and enjoy the scenic countryside along the way!

My brief Phinda experience is likely very different from most other visitors, and one that I think back on with immense gratitude. During my year-and-a-half long stay in South Africa, I kept hearing about Phinda as this high-end game reserve, with luxurious lodges and fantastic game drives (where visitors frequently got sightings of leopards and cheetahs, who tend to be very elusive elsewhere). Because of its status as a private reserve, most people only get to experience it if they stay at one of the expensive lodges or as a volunteer. One night at Phinda was way out of my price range, so I never really thought I’d ever get to experience it. But the Universe has a way of making things happen in the most unexpected ways.

It was November 2014, and I was down to my last couple of weeks in South Africa. At the time, I was trying to get my affairs in order before leaving what had been my home for 18 months. One thing on my to-do list was selling my two vehicles. A man contacted me, wanting to buy my Land Rover, and we arranged a meeting. Upon meeting, he wanted the vehicle as is, and everything went smoothly. As we did some small-talk he asked me what I had been doing in the country. I told him about my research on leopards in Tembe and Ndumo, and he then told me about his own work. He was the caretaker or manager (not really sure what to call it) of one of the private sections of Phinda, called Mziki. As a hobby, he bought Land Rovers and turned them into safari vehicles to be used in the reserve. We got along well, and by the end of our meeting he invited me to come visit his house within the reserve. I was more than happy to accept the invitation!

Just a few days later I was on my way to Phinda. I followed his instructions on where to drive, and ended up at a gate that I do not think a lot of visitors use or will ever see. I just kept on driving along the road, and suddenly I was inside the reserve (no entrance fee or anything). It felt really weird getting in this way, especially at such a famous reserve where people pay a lot of money to stay.

It didn’t take long before it was clear I was inside a Big 5-reserve, as I came across a herd of buffalo not far into the reserve. And not long after that, a white rhino crossed the road in front of me! It was somewhat surreal. I was now inside Phinda Private Game Reserve, just driving on my own in my little Jeep. On my way to visit a guy I met just a few days prior. And I got to experience it all for free! I was only allowed to drive on the main road through the reserve, however, but it still ended up being a very nice game drive! As I eventually reached his property far into the reserve, I had seen 3 of the Big 5 (buffalo, rhino and elephant), as well as plenty of other wildlife. 

The man, Johan was his name, greeted me alongside his wife and teenage son. They were so nice and welcoming. They took me on a short evening safari around their area in one of the Land Rovers he had turned into a safari vehicle. After a nice drive (we didn’t really see a lot), we had a lovely dinner (a real South African braai), we talked, watched a movie, and I spent the night in their guest room. During that stay, Johan said he could take the Jeep off my hands as well, and that he offered to take me to the airport himself the day I had to leave just about two weeks later. I, of course, accepted!

My flight was on the 1st of December (from Durban), and Johan and his family invited me to stay at their place in Phinda from the 27th of November. Four nights and three whole days, and still for free! Those last few days were very special to me. I was filled with lots of emotions as my days in this country was coming to an end, and I got to spend them with great people in a beautiful reserve.

Here are some highlights from my last few days in South Africa:

November 28th

Johan was kind (and trusting) enough to lend me one of his safari vehicles to drive up and down the main road of the reserve on my first morning. It was one of those open safari vehicles with no roof. It was such an awesome experience to be able to drive such a vehicle all by myself. You feel so much closer to the wildlife without any roof or windows between yourself and the wild animals. It was a nice drive, and again I got buffalos, white rhino and an elephant, as well as lots of birds.

November 29th

This day Johan took me on a trip around the Mziki-area of Phinda to look at a bunch of private lodges that was being built for very rich people from around the world. This is an area that very few people ever get to see. It is basically a small neighborhood of private lodges, set on the side of a hill overlooking a small lake, exclusive to the extremely rich. He wouldn’t say who these rich people were, but he could tell me that some were famous and some were heads of large global companies. I got to walk around in some of these unfinished lodges, and he told me a lot of details about them. It was an incredible experience. I would have loved to be one of those owners!

November 30th

My last full day in South Africa, and what a day it was! I decided to do one last morning drive in my own Jeep, which I loved and would miss dearly. It had been with me through thick and thin. Once again, I was restricted to the main road, but the reserve had decided to give me a send-off to remember. I got lots of wildlife close to the road, and a herd of zebras provided me with some great photos. Another white rhino right next to the road was another highlight. But nothing beats what happened after I turned to head back to Johan’s place. 

As I came across an outpost by the road, I saw some movement behind one of the buildings. Four animals appeared out from the corner of a house and walked towards the road. It was a small family of lions! A mother and three subadult cubs. I stopped the Jeep, and the lions just walked onto the road in front of me. Instead of crossing, they began to walk along the road for a bit. I followed, but they didn’t seem to mind. After a short while, the lions decided to stop and rest, and they just laid down right there next to me. At that moment I had one young male lion on the road just outside of my window to the right, another young male on the road in front, the mother in the grass on my left, and a young female behind me. I was surrounded by lions! For about half an hour, it was just me and the little family of lions. It was an incredible experience, and I cherished every second. Eventually, they got up, walked off into the tall grass, and disappeared. For someone who loves big cats, this was an emotional send-off, and I truly felt they were there to say goodbye. 

Final thoughts

Although I never got to experience Phinda in the way most tourists do, I’d definitely recommend this reserve to anyone who has the money and opportunity to stay here. I almost only got to see the reserve from the main road, and I still got to see so much! The scenery was beautiful and open, and wildlife was everywhere! I am also so grateful for Johan and his family for their incredible friendliness and hospitality, and for providing me with the best possible ending to my life in South Africa! Just thinking about those days get me emotional. Thank you!