Ndumo Game Reserve

Ndumo is a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts, especially birdwatchers, with more than 400 recorded bird species. Its unique wetlands and riverine ecosystems make it one of the most biodiverse reserves in South Africa, despite its small size. Because of its remoteness and the fact that it lacks many of the famous species found in other reserves, such as lions, elephants, rhinos, cheetah, or African wild dog, there are not that many visitors. This makes each visit a tranquil and peaceful experience, where you are likely to enjoy this lush and scenic landscape all by yourself.

The park is known for its beautiful and serene water bodies, particularly the Nyamithi Pan, where you can observe crocodiles basking at the shore and hippos relaxing in the water, as well as a variety of different water birds. Most visits are likely to provide great observations of giraffes, which are very common, as well as zebras, warthogs, and lost of other antelopes species, such as the beautiful nyala. There is an opportunity to spot the tiny suni antelope among the forest undergrowth, an endangered species in South Africa. In terms of large predators, there is a population of spotted hyena, but they are seldom seen. Leopards do pass through the reserve occasionally, but sightings are few and far between.

Short answer: Game drives, birdwatching

Long answer:

Ndumo is most famous for being a birdwatching destination, but it is also perfect for anyone who wants a quiet and secluded nature reserve, free of crowded roads and with fewer potentially dangerous animals. Because of its remoteness and lack of many of the Big 5-species, few tour operators offer typical guided safaris here and the most popular option is self-driving safaris. It is an easy reserve to navigate in almost any sedan, but there are optional sections, such as the northernmost road at the edge of the reserve, where you do need a 4×4.

Guided tours

It is possible to book guided tours in Ndumo, particularly guided birdwatching tours from various tour operators. It is also possible to book both game drives and walking safaris within the park itself, or through the website of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, who manages the park. I never did any of these, but they are most likely to be geared towards the birdlife of the reserve (not to say they won’t look for other interesting wildlife as well). These guided tours and safaris are the only options for visitors to get around the beautiful Nyamithi Pan, as the roads around the pan are closed to regular visitors. 

Accommodation

If you want to stay there a few days, it is possible to book accommodation within the reserve near the Main Camp to the east. There are also designated spots for tenting in this area. Everything is self-catering. For those seeking more comfort, there are two lodges found a bit further south of the reserve, Shemula Lodge and Ndumo River Lodge. 

Self-driving tips

If you decide to explore Ndumo on your own (with your own vehicle or a rental), here are some tips on what to do and where to go:

• Ezulweni Hide at the eastern edge of Nyamithi Pan is a must visit for any birdwatcher. It is the only way for regular visitors to get to Nyamithi. Here you can sit quitely and look for birds in or near the water. This hide is reached by taking the road north just before reaching the Main Camp. You will pass an open clearing called the Vulture Restaurant on your way to the hide. There are actually no typical vultures, such as the white-backed vulture, in this reserve, but I did see the rare and sought-after palm-nut vulture at this exact location once.

• Red Cliffs picnic site at the northwestern edge of the park is a fantastic spot to take a break and have lunch. There is a magnificent view over the Usuthu River below, and you can see far into the forests of Mozambique on the other side. Be sure to look for African fish eagles and kingfishers in this area.

• Explore the fence lines at the western and southern edge of the park. Although you will spend a fair amount of time driving through the more forested areas in the western and central areas of the park, be sure to also spend a bit of time along the fence line. A lot of birds, such as bee-eaters, rollers, and various birds of prey, can be seen observed sitting on the fence line. The southern fence line (west of the entrance gate) will also take you past some interesting and more open areas.

• 4×4 trail at the northernmost edge of the park (a bit north of the Red Cliffs picnic site) is a must for everyone who has a 4×4 vehicle. It is a rough road, with many ups and downs, and twists and turns, but the scenery is fantastic. There are lots of yellow fever trees here because of its proximity to the Usuthu River flood plain, and, during my time here at least, there was a pair of crowned eagles (the most powerful eagle in Africa) that called this section home. Be aware that this section is often closed during the rainy season, as the area gets flooded.

• Bring a spare tire, jack and wheel spanner, particularly if you visit in the dry season (May-September). When its dry season there is a lot of debris and small rocks on the roads, and thus a higher chance of getting a flat tire. I talk from experience, as I regularly had to change tire when I worked at Ndumo during the drier months. After the rains in summer (November-March) begins washing some of the debris away, punctures happens a lot less often. 

For birding, the best time to visit Ndumo will be from spring to the end of summer (October-March). At this time many birds will be in their breeding plumage, and migrant species will be present. The main roads are also more comfortable to drive on at this time, with less debris and dust. Some roads, however, will be more difficult to traverse after heavy summer rains, and might even be closed off completely, such as the northern 4×4 trail. 

It is hot and humid during summer, and the number of mosquitos increases as well (this is an area where malaria is present), so be sure to bring repellent. To a Norwegian, such as myself, the numbers of mosquitos are hardly noticeable compared to what we get during our summers in Norway, but the presence of malaria do make you more cautious. 

If you visit during the drier and cooler (but still warm) winter months (May-September) you get less vegetation and it is easier to spot wildlife. The park is definitely worth a visit at this time of year (even for birding), and the Nyamithi Pan is beautiful year-round. Be aware that roads hare harder with more debris and dust, and that chances of getting a tire puncture increases, so bring extra tires, jack and wheel spanner just to be safe. 

Ndumo Game Reserve is about a 5-hour drive north from Durban, or 3.5 hours from St Lucia, a small tourist town that serves as a great hub when exploring northern KwaZulu-Natal. To reach Ndumo, you travel along the N2 highway north and take an exit towards the town of Jozini (road P522). From the town of Jozini, follow the road north, then turn left onto the road leading directly to the reserve (P435). Visitors are advised to refuel and stock up on supplies before entering, which can be done at the town of Ndumo outside the reserve, as there are no services inside the reserve.

Personally I never came by the aforementioned route, as I always combined a trip to Ndumo Game Reserve with a trip to Tembe Elephant Park, as I worked in both reserves. My route also begins at the N2 highway, but I took a right off the highway near the town of Hluhluwe (instead of Jozini). I then followed the R22 all the way up north until I reached a T-junction. From there, heading west, it’s only 15 minutes until you reach Tembe, and then a further 20 minutes until you reach the road up to Ndumo (P435). If you have the time, I always recommend a visit to both of these reserve when you visit this remote region of KwaZulu-Natal. 

As mentioned, I did field work in both Ndumo Game Reserve and the nearby Tembe Elephant Park. It was for a research project on leopards, and I spent about 18 months (in 2013-2014) trying to collect data on this elusive species in both of these reserves. My main method of data collection was through camera traps, which I sat up throughout the reserve, but only west of the Main Camp. Every other week or so I spent 3-4 days in the reserve (sometimes more), collecting data on prey species and checking on the camera traps.

Just to get it out of the way: There were (and probably still are) no resident leopards in Ndumo (compared to the about 30 individuals in Tembe next door). I got 3 camera trap photos of leopards on 3 different occasions during the entire 18 months survey. Some actually didn’t think I’d get any evidence of leopard at all in Ndumo, since no one ever saw them there, so actually getting 3 on camera was quite exciting. It meant they at least passed through occasionally. 

Even though I did not see any leopards with my own eyes, I had a great time on every visit to Ndumo. I always looked forward to my stay there, as it was so quiet and relaxing, and I just absolutely loved to drive around Nyamithi Pan. To me it is one of the most beautiful areas I’ve ever experienced, in any wildlife reserve. Because I did research and had camera traps set all over, I had the privilege of having access to all roads in the reserve, which meant I could access Nyamithi Pan as I pleased. Knowing that I will not be able to drive around that area again on my lonesome next time I visit makes me a bit sad, but rules are rules. 

There was also another thing I loved about Ndumo, and that was the lack of elephants. Don’t get me wrong here, as I love elephants. They are magnificent and intelligent creatures that I respect and adore, but driving around in the winding and narrow roads of Tembe, with the possibility (and likelihood) of bumping into an elephant around every corner had me more stressed out than I care to admit. They can be grumpy and unpredictable at times, and with their size and power, you are not safe inside your vehicle if they decide they do not want you around. Thus, Ndumo was my safe haven. A place I could relax and unwind after a week of work in the much larger Tembe. 

My accommodation was also something I greatly enjoyed in Ndumo, as this was the only reserve where I had to sleep in my own tent. I always put up my tent inside the Ndumo Research Camp, which is south of the Main Camp, close by the fence line. I had access to a kitchen, a common room and bathroom, and I never really wanted for anything (except at the height of summer, when temperatures reached over 40 degrees Celsius and there were few ways of cooling down). I enjoyed walks around the campsite, looking for birds to photograph (there were always something new around), and I got to meet other research students that came and went, who did their own field research in the reserve. Good times!

As I drove around the reserve, doing my work, I did see and experience quite a lot. In terms of species, I always saw a ton of crocodiles around Nyamithi (it was my favorite place to photograph them as they basked along the shore), and the hippos were always relaxing out in the water. I frequently came across giraffes, as well as lots of others species, such as zebras, wildebeest, impala, nyala, and warthogs. This is also the only reserve were I managed to photograph the tiny suni antelope, which is very shy and found in the denser sand forest areas (I also saw this species now and then in Tembe, but never got photos). I had at least three decent sightings of white rhino, which were quite shy in this reserve, and one was a mother with a calf. Sadly, the rhinos here, both black and white, were targeted by poachers, and when only a few individuals remained, they relocated them elsewhere to keep them safe. There are currently no rhinos in Ndumo, which is quite sad. 

I really got into bird photography during my last six months in South Africa, and in that period every visit to Ndumo also became a birding trip. A lot of the time was spent trying to find and photograph new species, both as I drove around the reserve and as I walked around the campsite. I got lots of great species around Nyamithi, such as the saddle-billed stork, yellow-billed stork and goliath heron, as well as lots of birds of prey (African fish eagles, crowned eagles, martial eagles, bateleurs, and lots more). Some other favorites of mine were the African paradise-flycatcher, grey-headed bushshrike, and violet-backed starling (all found around camp). To see and photograph a palm-nut vulture was a real highlight as well.

I want to finish with one of my absolute favorite stories from Ndumo. I have already mentioned how extremely rare leopards are in this place. Well, one day I actually came very close of actually seeing one with my own eyes, which is almost unheard of. I was doing one of my regular data collecting rounds when I suddenly heard a sound I had come to know very well in other reserves: the vervet monkey alarm call for big cats. As soon as I heard the sound, I froze, as I knew that it had to be a leopard somewhere nearby! I almost couldn’t believe it. I sat a bit too long listening before I realized I had to get myself closer to where the sound was. I eventually got to the place were the monkeys were shouting, which was at the very western edge of Nyamithi Pan, were the water turns into a smaller stream. I then assumed that the leopard was following this stream. I went to a place were I knew this stream would cross the road as fast as I could. When I finally got there, I sat and waited, but no leopard came. As I got closer, I got eyes on some fresh feces just next to the road by the stream. I looked closer, and realized it had to be from the leopard! Physical evidence of an animal that people who had worked there for 20 years had never seen! It was an incredible experience, even though I never actually got to see the animal.